
There are many treatments to help control or prevent acne, but what can you do about acne that has already left its mark on your skin?
Acne scars are caused by the body's inflammatory response to oil, bacteria, and dead cells in the skin's pores. White blood cells and inflammatory molecules may remain at the site of an active acne lesion for days or even weeks. In people who are susceptible to scarring, an acne scar may result.
Skincare professionals will often recommend chemical peels to help reduce the appearance of acne scars. A chemical peel is performed by applying a solution to the surface of the skin that causes the top layers of skin to gently blister and peel. As the old skin—or acne scar tissue—sloughs away, it's replaced by new, fresh skin. The gentler the solution, the longer the peeling process takes. Normal treatments can take anywhere from several days to weeks.
There are two basic types of chemical peels: over-the-counter (OTC) peels that you can apply yourself at home, and chemical peels that are performed by a medical professional, usually a dermatologist.
Alphahydroxy acids (AHAs), such as glycolic peels, are the mildest of the OTC peel formulas and produce light peels. AHA peels are available in varying concentrations that may be applied weekly or at longer intervals. Trichloroacetic acid and phenol peels are used by dermatologists to treat deep acne scarring.
At-home glycolic peels usually use very low concentrations of glycolic acid, making them gentle but often less effective than the stronger agents used in medically supervised chemical peels. Fortunately, recent advances in chemical peel technology now enable over-the-counter glycolic acid cosmetic peels to provide results similar to doctor-administered peels.
Look for peels that use CelluZyme™ technology. Used alone or combined in formulations with glycolic acid, CelluZyme technology accelerates cell turnover on the skin's surface without burning the skin. Individuals with mild acne or light scarring can expect to see the greatest improvements.
CelluZyme technology can also be formulated with a mild concentration of salicylic acid to help prevent new breakouts from forming and to discourage future acne.
Following a chemical peel, tender new skin should be protected from sunburn. To help protect against recurring acne, choose an SPF 15 or higher sunscreen or daily moisturizer that is "non-comedogenic" (won't cause acne).
The bottom line? If you have light acne scarring or discoloration, a do-it-yourself chemical peel regimen is a convenient, inexpensive way to reduce or eliminate facial marks. Those who have deep acne scarring may want to consider stronger peels conducted under a dermatologist's supervision.
References:- American Academy of Dermatology. Acne scarring. Available at: http://www.skincarephysicians.com/acnenet/scarring.html. Accessed March 19, 2008.
- American Society of Plastic Surgeons. Chemical peel. Available at http://www.plasticsurgery.org/patients_consumers/procedures/ChemicalPeel.cfm. Accessed March 19, 2008.
